Winter Climbs 2016: Teams Go To Work on Nanga Parbat

It has been a couple of weeks since we posted any updates from Pakistan, where at least five teams are now preparing to attempt the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in winter. As I'm sure most of you know, Nanga is one of just two 8000-meter peaks that have yet to be climbed during the very difficult winter season. The other major peak that holds that distinction is K2, which will have no visitors this winter at all. But over the past few years, there has been progress made on Nanga Parbat, and this year just might be the one that sees a successful summit at long last.

The first team on the mountain this year was the Polish Justice For All squad. They actually arrived in the region as far back as the middle of November, and have been busy acclimatizing ahead of the start of the winter season. Once the first day of winter in the Northern Hemisphere passed on December 21, they immediately went to work and have been busy fixing ropes and establishing camps ever since. They have now reached an altitude of about 5500 meters (18,044 ft) and have been shuttling gear up to their intermediate camps before heading higher on the Schell Route.

Elsewhere, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have arrived in Base Camp on Nanga Parbat after spending several weeks acclimatizing in the Andes in South America. Adam says that the snow is already quite heavy on the mountain, but the pair have managed to establish Camp 1 at 4900 meters (16,076 ft). They have since returned to Base Camp where they are catching their breath, warming up, and planning the next move.


The international team led by Alex Txikon, and consisting of Daniele Nardi and Ali Sadpara arrived on the mountain a few days back and have already gone to work too. They've already taken 70 kilograms (154 lbs) up to C1, which is located at 4850 meters (15,912 ft) using snowshoes and sleds to aid in the process. So far, the team reports that the weather has been good, but that is expected to change in the next few days, when heavy snow is in the forecast.

Italian climbers Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger reached Nanga Parbat on December 27, and have joined forces with Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz, who spent a considerable amount of time on the mountain last winter. They have been acclimatizing over the past few days, and most likely have established their first camp as well. As part of the process, the group has now gone as high as 6000 meters (19,685 ft) and spent a couple of nights above 5500 meters (18,044 ft) as well. They're now back in BC resting, and sorting through some logistical issues, including the fact that the porters are now requesting 5 times the price that they agreed upon to shuttle gear up to BC. Such are the challenges of an expedition to Pakistan.

For the most part, the winter climbing season is only now just getting underway. Some of these teams are prepared to stay on Nanga Parbat throughout the entire winter if necessary, although weather conditions will dictate any chances they have of actually reaching the top. For now, they are all being patient, taking their time, and watching the forecasts closely. We'll be watching their progress just as closely in the days to come. This could be the winter season in which history is made.

Winter Climbs 2016: Work Begins on Nanga Parbat

Winter has now officially arrived here in the northern hemisphere, and that means it is time for the very tough and challenging winter climbing season to begin as well. This year, the focus will be placed squarely on Nanga Parbat, the 8126 meter (26,660 ft) mountain located in Pakistan that is one of just two eight-thousand meter peaks that have yet to be climbed in winter. The other is K2 of course, which won't see any teams on its slopes this year. But as I write this, at least five teams are either on Nanga or will be arriving soon, with the race to be the first to top out starting today.

The first team to arrive was the Polish Justice For All squad. They've been on the mountain for nearly a week already, and have been busy setting up Base Camp, organizing their gear, and acclimatizing on some treks throughout the region. But now that winter is officially here, they'll begin the arduous task of shuttling equipment up the slopes as they start to build the series of camps that could eventually grant them access to the summit.

This team has been on the mountain before, and the Poles have a rich history of winter ascents. As usual, they have come well prepared for the challenges ahead, and have already stated that they are ready to stay in place all season long if it means they can finally climb Nanga Parbat. We'll see if it actually comes to that.

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger should also be on the mountain by now, although it is unclear exactly where they are located at the moment. They've been in Pakistan for several weeks now, and arrived in Skardu on December 9, which should have put them in position to reach Nanga ahead of the start of winter. Simone also has quite a history with winter climbing, although he and Lunger were forced to cancel their expedition last year. They're hoping for more success this time out however, and as a result they have arrived in country a bit earlier. Unlike the Polish squad though, they will be attempting to climb in a lighter fashion, as it is just the two of them working the route.


Meanwhile, Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi have wrapped up their acclimation efforts in the Argentinean Andes, and are now preparing to leave South America for Pakistan. Last week they summited several 6000 meter peaks, including  Incahuasi, a 6638 meter (21,778 ft) mountain that was once scared to the Incas. Those climbs have helped get them ready for Nanga Parbat, although it could be the early days of 2016 before they actually get to their intended target.

Similarly, Adam Bielecki has been acclimatizing in Chile as well before he departs for Pakistan. He summited Ojos del Salado (6893 meters/22,615 ft) on Saturday, and prior to that spent three nights above 6700 meters (21,981 ft) to let his body adapt to the altitude. He has likely descended now and is preparing to leave South America as well.

With the winter climbing season now underway, we'll be keeping a close eye on the proceedings on Nanga Parbat. The various teams that are already on the mountain will launch their efforts to climb the peak over the next day or two, while the others will focus on getting to Base Camp. It should be an interesting year on this massive peak, and although there is a long season ahead, I have a good feeling that we might just the first winter ascent early next year.

Winter Climbs 2016: Teams Pre-Acclimatzing in South America, Gathering in Pakistan

The winter climbing season is nearly upon us. The season officially arrives next Monday, which is the date that several teams have circled on their calendar as the start of the big challenge ahead. This year, there will be at least five individual teams attempting the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, while there are none currently scheduled for K2. In the days leading up to the start of the season, the climbers are busy preparing for what promises to be a long, difficult season. And while some are acclimatizing elsewhere, others have already arrived in Pakistan and are preparing to begin.

The Polish Justice For All squad is the first to arrive in Base Camp on Nanga Parbat. The team reached Lattabo two days ago, and have been busy building their camp ever since. They've set up their satellite communications system, solar panels, tents, and other gear, and are now patiently waiting for winter to officially arrive. They won't even begin to head up the mountain until that happens, but when it does, they'll be more than ready. The team is prepared to stay on Nanga for the entire season if necessary, waiting well into March for their chance at a summit. Hopefully it won't come to that, but with fickle weather a common occurrence on the mountain, anything is possible.

Meanwhile, the duo of Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are also in Pakistan. They arrived in Skardu last week, and while there haven't been updates since then, it is safe to assume they are now trekking towards Base Camp themselves. Depending on when they departed, they should arrive on the mountain before the start of winter as well. Simone reports that they had an armed escort with them, which is unsurprising considering the 2013 attack on Nanga Parbat BC by militants that left 11 people dead. The Pakistani government has taken strides to ensure that doesn't happen again, but it still weighs on the thoughts of climbers going there.


Elsewhere, Alex Txikon is busy acclimatizing in the Andes region of Argentina. He reports that while the altitudes there are helping his body prepare for the Karakoram, the climbing is non-technical, and the spring weather isn't anything close to what he'll face on Nanga Parbat. Still, it is a good way to get ready for the challenges he'll face on the mountain once again this year, as his team looks to complete the first winter route as well.

Finally, Adam Bielecki is also in South America acclimatizing, although he has chosen to workout in Chile instead. He reports that he is currently camping on the edge of a crater of a volcano at 22,244 ft (6779 meters), which is of course preparing him for altitude, but he too says that this is a non-technical climb. In a Facebook post he says that he is already bored with just hiking in the mountains, and is now ready for the real climbing to begin.

Both Alex and Adam will depart for Pakistan next week and begin making their way to Nanga Base Camp. Look for them to arrive around the start of the new year.

Right now, we're in a period of calm before the start of the winter season. After that, things will start to get interesting. The teams will be very busy acclimatizing, establishing their camps, fixing ropes, and watching the weather. Hopefully at least a few of them will get a legitimate shot at the summit this year. Those chances are few and far between, which is why the mountain has never been climbed in the winter before.

Stay tuned for more.

Winter Climbing 2016: Teams Prep For Nanga Parbat

The dust hasn't completely settled on the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, but teams are already looking ahead to the winter. While there are few expeditions that take place during the coldest, snowiest months of the year, as previously discussed there are at least five squads heading to Nanga Parbat in Pakistan to attempt the first ascent of that mountain during the winter season. To prepare for the challenges they'll face, several of those teams have already started their acclimatization process. ExWeb has a complete rundown of the situation.

The team being led by Alex Txikon has decided to acclimatize in the Andes of South America before flying to Pakistan. He'll be joined by Daniele Nardi, Ali Sadpara, and Janusz Golab. The team left for Argentina last Friday and plan to stay there until flying to Pakistan on December 22, the first full day of winter.

Polish climbers Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have flown to Chile where they'll also acclimatize in the Andes ahead of their winter attempt on Nanga. They'll first acclimatize on Ohos de Salado, a 6893 meter (22,614 ft) peak that will get them ready for a winter expedition to the Himalaya. The duo plan to climb NP in pure alpine style, without establishing camps or working a specific route.

Meanwhile, the joint Polish-Pakistani team that is attempting Nanga Parbat this winter has already started their acclimatization efforts on Rakaposhi. They've already reached an altitude of 4600 meters (15,091 ft) as they start to get their bodies ready for the conditions they'll face in the days to come. They'll be climbing the Schell Route on the Rupal Face, and hope to be on the mountain when winter officially begins.

Finally, Tomek Mackewicz and Elisabeth Revol will be back on Nanga Parbat this winter as well. They'll first acclimatize in the region before heading to Base Camp on the mountain in early January. The two climbers scouting a route last season, and even made a valiant attempt at the summit, but were forced to abandon their attempt. They'll use the intel they received on that expedition to help them this year too.

That's all for now. Expect to hear a lot more about these expeditions in the weeks ahead. We'll be watching their progress very closely.

Winter 2016 Climbs: Nanga Parbat Will Be Busy, K2 Will Be Empty

Last week I shared the news that Spanish climber Alex Txikon would lead an expedition to Nanga Parbat this winter in an effort to complete the first ascent of that mountain during the coldest, most difficult season of all. Turns out that group won't be alone, as ExWeb now reports that as many as five teams could be on the mountain, all trying to achieve the same objective.

In addition to Txikon's mix of climbers form all over the world, there will be a Polish-Pakistani team attempting the Rupal Face all on the Schell Route. That squad is already in Pakistan and according to ExWeb is preparing to acclimatize now ahead of the actual official start of winter on December 21.

Meanwhile, the team of Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz will be back on the mountain this year, along with Arslan Ahmed. They will be attempting an alpine style ascent along the Diamir side of the mountain. Reveal and Mackiewicz spent considerable amount of time scouting the route last year, and are hoping to return to complete unfinished business.

ExWeb doesn't have many details yet, but they are also reporting that Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger will be on Nanga Parbat this winter as well. Their route, schedule, and plans have yet to be revealed however. Hopefully we'll get more word on their intentions soon.

And finally, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech will acclimatize on Ojos before heading over to Nanga for the season. They'll be the fifth confirmed squad on the hill this winter, although ExWeb doesn't have any information on their intended route yet either.

At 8126 meters (26,660 ft) in height, Nanga Parbat is just one of two 8000-meter peaks that have yet to be climbed in winter. And while there will be quite a few teams attempting to put up the first winter ascent of that mountain, at this time it appears that there are no plans for anyone to attempt the other unclimbed eight-thousander this winter. That peak is K2 of course, which is perhaps the most dangerous and deadly of all of the big mountains. It's summit remains elusive in the best of weather conditions, and in the winter it is nearly unclimbable. I'm sure some day someone will reach the top, but it doesn't look like the winter of 2016 will be that time.

Of course, we'll be following these expeditions closely as the winter season approaches. This just might be the year that someone finally summits Nanga in winter.

Himalaya Fall 2015: Progress on Lhotse, Looking ahead to Nanga Parbat in Winter

The fall climbing season in Nepal is slowly grinding to a halt. Not many teams remain in the mountains now, and the poor weather conditions that have persisted throughout the autumn continue to make things difficult. While one team continues to labor away on an 8000 meter peak, another begins looking forward to the winter season ahead.

We've finally received an update from the South Korean team on Lhotse, and they have made some progress, despite very high winds on the mountain. According to ExWeb, the team has now established Camp 4 at 8000 meters (26,246 ft). They had attempted to set camp at 8100 meters, but winds in excess of 70 km/h (43 mph) made it impossible to keep the tents standing. They were able to find some shelter a bit lower power, which is where the squad is now as they wait for an opportunity to go up. The winds may not allow for that to happen though, as reportedly the strong gusts are impacting the entire mountain, including Base Camp.

The plan now is to wait and see if a weather window will come. The team is prepared to wait for a few days and watch the forecasts. Considering how late in the season it now is, this will likely be there last chance to summit, but they're not prepared to give up just yet.

Over on Annapurna IV, the Polish team has decided to pull the plug on their attempt to summit that mountain along a new route. The big wall that they were attempting to climb was already difficult enough, but it is now gotten even more difficult due to avalanche conditions. Early in the season, the squad saw great weather and felt confident that their expedition would succeed. But as they prepared to launch their summit bid, conditions on the the mountain took a turn for the worse, with heavy snow dropping along the Southwest Wall that they had planned to climb. The team stayed in BC hoping for a shift in weather, but it never came. Now, they will pack their bags and go home, although they do feel they managed to get some good intel from the route. Perhaps they'll return to give it another go in the future.


Late last week, 76-year old Spanish climber, Carlos Soria reached the summit of Ama Dablam. The 6812 meter (22,349 ft) peak is often used as a tune-up for bigger mountains in the Himalaya, but considering Carlos' resume, he wasn't there for a tune-up of any kind. Still, his team managed to top out in good weather conditions, which is no small feat considering how difficult the fall season has been. Congrats to him and all of his companions on a job well done.

Finally, the fall season may not be quite over yet, but some climbers are already looking ahead to winter. Among them, Spanish climber Alex Txikon, who has announced his plans to return to Nanga Parbat once again. He'll be joined by Ferran Latorre, Daniele Nardi, Ali Sadpara, and Janusz Golab, as the entire squad sets out for Pakistan in late December. The plan will be to reach the mountain as winter official sets in, and start the climb immediately. They are planning to attempt the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face, and are preparing to be there until the end of February.

You may recall that the 8126 meter (26,660 ft) peak is one of only two 8000-meter mountain that have to be climbed in winter � K2 being the other. They will likely not be the only team on Nanga this winter, as it has been a prime candidate for a first ascent for some time. Alex hopes to build on the experience his team � which included Ali and Daniele � from last year to finally reach the top.

That's all for today. More to come as any news breaks. Right now, that looks like it will most likely come from Lhotse, although there are a few other expeditions still ongoing as well.